I am back in Jerusalem and ever so happy!  I have not enjoyed being out in the desert for so many days- unrelenting heat and rock graveyards are not really my thing. Quick review because it is close to dinner time:

Bedouin Experience: The Bedouins are the last remaining nomads in Israel and they live and wander in the desert.  They are typically Muslim, though a variant because of their absence from mosques.  We visited a Bedouin museum to learn about their culture and then visited a Bedouin tent to have tea.  We sat on cushions cross legged and learned the communication of coffee.  For example, a guest is given three small servings of coffee, which add up to one cup.  If a guest puts the cup down in front of him without drinking the first serving it means he has come to talk business, not for a social call.  If the host serves a fourth serving, it means he or she is asking you to leave. Rather fascinating.  Tea follows the bitter coffee, and it was hot and sweet and delicious.

The Dead Sea- a true highlight!  The buoyancy is like nothing I have ever experienced! It is the dead sea because it is fed water but has no outlet and the evaporation leaves mineral and salt residue.  Due to this, all you do is wade out and sit down as if you were sitting in a chair, and POP up go your legs and you can rest your arms on the water next to you.  Swimming on your stomach feels like you are paddling on top of a surfboard. However, it does stink of sulfur and is lethal to swallow.  It slightly burns any orifice or cut on your body, and quite misfortunate if your mouth or eyes get any of the water in them.  The sea floor is covered in balls of salt- much like a sugar cube, but round and not sweet.  Such fun though, and something I had been wanting to do.

Masada-  desert Fortress, the site I was assigned to research and brief the group.  It is fraught with hoppin' history: a selfish Judean King, then the elaborate and petty Herod the Great, and then a band of 960 Jewish rebels who collectively committed suicide when the Romans laid siege upon the fortification.  There are great views of the Dead Sea from the site, there is a three story palace (one of two) that drops down the Northern Face of 1,000 foot cliffs, and mosaics that still remain from the time of Herod.

Last night we were at the Inbar Hotel, and I hated it- everything in our room was sticky, the food was terrible, and the carpets all dirty.  However to pass the time Diana gave me a short hair cut and we went to a pub to watch the Russia-Sweden Euro Cup soccer game, so the time in Arad (city of the hotel) was all together well good (as the British would say).

Today we went to En-Gedi, an oasis in the desert.  We had been driving through brown dryness for 4 days, and even the Dead Sea hadn't been especially refreshing because it is so warm and salty, so we drive into this wonderful site where we hiked up to numerous waterfalls and swam in all the pools.  That was truly a gift, to have such a reprieve.

Off to dinner!

Shalom, Corinna

Coffee Bean in Jerusalem!

Mediterranean Sea near Ashqelon

I write to you VERY happy!

Hello hello!

For all those who know me well, imagine a place where my dreams come true, and that is where I am.  I am a short walk from my hotel in--get this-- a chocolate store AND coffee shop, with free Internet to boot! Diana and I are a little timid though, we were brought Turkish coffee with cardamon and such, and it smells a little strong.

The other very happy and wonderful experience today, other than this marriage of chocolate and coffee in one residence, was swimming in the Mediterranean sea! We went to a great archaeological "tell" (dig site) in the morning in Ashqelon (note: I revel in the freedom from the English determined mandate for the letter 'u' to follow a 'q').  Ashqelon was a bit of an adrenaline rush because it is within rocket-reach from rocket-launching Gaza.  A rocket hit a month ago in a shopping center and killed 4, and a rocket his this past Thursday the 12th and landed in the ocean just a way from where we were standing today.  But the site visit went fine, and we were lectured by world-famous archaeologist and Harvard professor Dr. Stager.  However, Dr. Nelson (our group leader) didn't want to unnecessarily subject the group to risk so we drove north to a wonderful beach spot.  I couldn't believe I was in Israel!  Tiki huts serving food and drink, azure sparkling warm water, body surfing in the waves, sunbathing, just so... happy-making.

We then stopped at various sites (the day started to go realllllly slow after that), the most remarkable being the Elah Valley- the place where David fought Goliath! To spice things up a little a few of us decided to act out the story as it was being read.  Diana, fittingly, was David at her impressive 5'3", which may even be taller than what was David's height.  I even found the stone that was used to strike Goliath.

Well that was today, Monday, one week from having arrived here. In brief of yesterday, our day off (except for an evening exam) Diana and I created a "Santa Barbara with a Jerusalem Twist" day.  We walked into New City and shared a pizza at a vegetarian restaurant, got Ice Blended Mochas at the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf (at an atrocious doubling of price, $7!), shopped a little in modern stores, then we dropped into the Old City and, as the deal pushing duo, extensively bargained for hand woven silks and beads.  We had lunch in a small winding alley way paved with cobble stones above and surrounded by a sweeping array of colorful ethnic blankets, shawls, and dresses carpeting the ancient walls.

We leave Jerusalem in the morning with our bags to stay in Arad for two nights.  I'm not quite sure what is there, but once I learn, I'll be sure to pass on the extensive knowledge.

With affection, Corinna

Dome of the Rock-

Today's Visit.

Real gold on the dome!

The Muslims believe Mohammed was

dictated the Quran on the rock that is within

this building, as well as the Abraham-

Ishmael scenario, as recorded in the previous

post. Truly beautiful to stand at its base.

I have been wanting to go for 4 years and have

my photo taken in front. Now at last!

Today we hit some of the biggest Jerusalem locations, and it took only 12 hours to do so! We began the morning at 4:30 AM on the Mount of Olives to see the sunrise.  Right after breakfast we went to the Temple Mount, which has the Dome of the Rock.  Aesthetically it is stunning: gold plated dome, tile mosaics, and intricate colors and patterns.  Religiously, socially, and politically it is a hot bed of dissension and debate.

From there we went on to the Garden of Gethsemane where Christ spent his last hours. (Fun fact: Geth means olive and semane means press in Hebrew; put it all together, Gethsemane means olive press, fitting because of the olive trees that grow there). Adjacent to the garden is the Church of all Nations, which is home to the rock that Christ kneeled on.  Rocks are rather important here, the Dome of the Rock is built around the large stone slab that the Muslims believe Abraham was to sacrifice his son Ishmael upon, and the Jews believe he was to sacrifice his son Isaac.

We then spent the afternoon in various museums: Israeli modern art, looted fine art from the Holocaust, the Shrine of the Book that houses the Dead Sea Scrolls found in the caves of Qumran, and finally the Holocaust remembrance museum, which gave me new insight into Zionism and the Jew's desire for the creation of an Israeli state.

One of our group members, Andrew, flew with us on the L.A. to Atlanta leg last Sunday.  But when he tried to continue the journey from Atlanta to Tel Aviv he was turned around because of a passport that would not meet Israeli standards.  He fortunately arrived today after flying back to L.A. to get a new passport overnight.  Otherwise everyone is safe and happy and healthy, which is wonderful!

Some of you have been curious about the weather, and it has actually been quite pleasant.  It is about 85 during the days and 60 at night.  Today was the hottest day and it was probably around 92.  Winds pick up around 2 or 3 in the afternoon, and those are rather cool.  Sounds like the California crowd has hotter heat than here!

With affection, Corinna

Coffee above Jerusalem!

Second Walking Day in the City

We were on our feet for about 9 hours today, which results in a very exhausted group, but we are so thrilled to experience all that we can.  Today had a phenomenally fun activity: Hezekiah's Tunnel! When Hezekiah was King of Jerusalem the Assyrians were to lay a siege on the city.  In preparation he planned to re-route the Gihon Springs into a man-made tunnel so that the city could have a water source.  His men began digging from opposite ends and met in the middle.  We suited up in shorts and water shoes and began the 45 minute trek in the dark, tight, and occasionally low-ceilinged tunnel, clear and cold water rushing past us, reaching at a maximum about mid-thigh level.  Good thing I had my forehead flashlight! I led the group and it was a complete adventure.  Especially when I decided to turn my light off so that we could experience being in a small, tight, water-filled space in pitch darkness.

It has been a physically demanding trip, and unfortunately a couple of the girls are unable to keep up as we hike through valleys and up hills, my sympathy level is about .002%.  Other than that, the group dynamics are working out well enough.

When I came I tried to have as open a mind as possible, apart from U.S. prejudices of the cultures here.  However, I do feel safer going through the Israeli quarter, and feel a need to always cover my head when walking through the Muslim.  The Muslim quarter encompasses the Dome of the Rock, the Israeli quarter is to the left, the Christian below the Israel, and the Assyrian quarter to the right of that.  There are distinct flavors to each quarter.

I am off to clean up before dinner!  We have a sunrise service at 4:45 AM on the Mt. of Olives, then a day at museums, then an exam tomorrow night.  Dr. Nelson has a plot to kill us, perhaps?  It is manageable, and it is worth it!

Shalom, Corinna

Diana and I in a Jerusalem marketplace